Edinburgh is having a foodie moment. Last week it was named the Most Exciting Food Destination for 2025 by The Good Food Guide. This week, the Michelin Guide Ceremony (Great Britain and Ireland) – held in Scotland for the first time – saw new stars awarded to Lyla and Avery, and new Bib Gourmand awards for Ardfern and Skua.
The city is not immune from hospitality sector pressures, but there has been wave after wave of new openings recently, from casual cafes, pizza and taco bars to fine-dining, and everything in between.
After seven years reviewing restaurants in the city, it’s hard to narrow down my favourites … but here are 10 places that I’m always thrilled to eat at, for every budget.
The Palmerston
Few restaurants have claimed the heart of Edinburgh residents quite like The Palmerston. It’s a bright airy space, a former bank branch transformed into an elegant easy-going restaurant. Sustainability and local produce guide the menus, with proper starters, mains and puddings. Settle in with a large plate of baked Berkshire pork shoulder, swede mash, January King cabbage, cider and sage (£27) with a glass of something delicious from the cellar. The weekday set lunch (Tues-Fri) is a steal (two courses £21, three courses £24).
1 Palmerston Place, thepalmerstonedinburgh.co.uk
Ardfern
This relaxed all-day cafe and wine bar from Edinburgh-born, award-winning chef Roberta Hall-McCarron is next door to her flagship restaurant The Little Chartroom. While the Chartroom is dreamy for a special occasion, Ardfern has become part of the fabric of Leith. The day begins with good coffee and fresh doughnuts (£4.50), pork belly brioche buns (from £6.50), and stacked hash browns (£8). Later, order barbecue aubergine tacos with sweetcorn, fermented chilli and feta (£13) or braised beef pie with beans (£20).
10-12 Bonnington Road, ardfern.uk
Pomelo
On cold days I daydream about hot hand-ripped noodles at Pomelo: chewy, spicy and singing with Sichuan peppercorns (£11.50). Chef Jun Au’s vibrant take on modern Chinese cooking is fresh and fun with a small changing menu. Come for the noodles at lunchtime, or in the evening for family-style dishes to share (from £8.50). The windows steam up and you’ll bump elbows with a neighbour, but I promise you won’t care.
27 Sciennes Road, pomelocafe.co.uk
Leftfield
Every neighbourhood deserves a restaurant like this: one where you feel like an invited guest on every visit. This intimate family-run bistro has gorgeous views over Bruntsfield Links towards Arthur’s Seat. On the menu you’ll find the freshest Scottish seafood, cooked with creativity and care. Start with Shetland mussels (£12), then try sea trout with broccolini, olives, and wild garlic butter sauce (£20).
12 Barclay Terrace, leftfieldedinburgh.co.uk
Ka Pao
Whether perched at the bar or tucked into a booth, Ka Pao feels like somewhere you can stay all night. Experimental small dishes are inspired by the flavours of south-east Asia, using Scotland’s larder. A favourite is Arbroath smokie miang, with galangal, spinach and peanuts (£7.50) and the corn ribs with salted coconut, shrimp and lime are messy but addictive (£7). Take friends for the sharing menu to try as many dishes as possible (£30.50pp).
St James Quarter, ka-pao.com
Harajuku Kitchen
This bistro sets high standards for Japanese food in Edinburgh. There’s a rustic feel to the space: exposed brick walls, rattan lights and fabric screens echoing ryokan walls. The food is incredible, the sashimi is light and delicate, arranged with precision and care, and always the highest quality (from £7). The £14.90 weekday lunch menu (and served 5pm-6pm) is unbeatable.
10 Gillespie Place, harajukukitchen.co.uk
Montrose
Sister restaurant to the Michelin-starred Timberyard, Montrose offers the same experimental approach to Scottish ingredients at a more affordable price. The award-winning drinks list includes low-intervention wines, and homemade bitters, liqueurs, vermouths and soft drinks. In the wine bar, order oysters and olives, then playful dishes like suyo cucumber, burnt vegetable dressing and egg yolk (£8). The weekend set lunch is a delicious demonstration of this kitchen’s creativity (£20/£25 for two or three courses). Upstairs the restaurant is a more formal affair, also delightful (set menu £80).
1-7 Montrose Terrace, montroserestaurant.co
Lyla
If you’re going to blow the budget in style: go to Lyla where Stuart Ralston – executive chef and owner of four restaurants in the city – is at the peak of his powers. Expect 10 delicate-but-dazzling seafood-focused courses from the open kitchen. A year since eating here I still recall tender cured plaice decorated with radish flowers, an individual exmoor caviar pearl in every bud; cured trout sashimi fanned into petals on smooth salty chawanmushi, with marigold, lemon and nori, and a fat langoustine wrapped in crisp pastry strands, dunked in burnt apple and sorrel ketchup. (dinner £165, lunch £65/£95 for five to seven courses).
3 Royal Terrace, lylaedinburgh.co.uk
Kitchen Table by Twelve Triangles
Edinburgh does cafes really well, with dozens of lovely spaces to while away an afternoon. Kitchen Table is one of the best, run by early Edinburgh sourdough pioneers Twelve Triangles. Pull up a mismatched wooden chair and order granola for breakfast with homemade yoghurt, berry compote, nut butter, and fresh fruit (£8.50), later perhaps a huge focaccia sandwich with black garlic roast aubergine, hummus, salsa and zhoug (£12.50). Co-owners Emily Cuddeford and Rachel Morgan have a cookbook out this spring and I dearly hope their Basque cheesecake (£6.50) has earned a page.
22-24 Easter Road, twelvetriangles.co.uk
Eleanore
There’s a soft minimal design to the interior at Eleanore, helping this small restaurant feel calm and relaxed rather than crowded. Think sleek lines, handmade ceramics and thick curtains, all allowing the focus to rest on the food, which is outstanding. There’s a set menu, though do add the oysters. Recently, I loved a main of cod au poivre with creamed spinach and sweet roscoff onions, followed by Eleanore’s cult Tirami-choux bun. (set lunch £38, dinner £70).
30-31 Albert Place, eleanore.uk
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