Known for blending opulence with Indian heritage through his trademark flair, he holds a permanent and pioneering place in Indian fashion, bridging traditional elements with modern sensibilities.
In terms of his standing in fashion history, he was a key figure in the “bridge generation” of Indian fashion-between the trailblazers like Rohit Khosla and Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla and future icons like Sabyasachi Mukherjee. And what a larger-than-life, trailblazing leader he was for this brigade! Bal’s collections have been exhibited internationally, showcasing intricate craftsmanship inspired by Indian architecture, Mughal motifs, and nature. He was the first designer to collaborate with Khadi Gram Udyog, bringing India’s heritage fabric into the luxury space. Yet, while many of his peers continued to headline shows and collaborations, Rohit Bal had taken a lower profile in the past decade, making the news more for his health challenges than as Indian fashion’s enfant terrible.
Still, this pause in fashion is testimony that his significance went well beyond his designs. His work wasn’t merely clothing; it was a deeply expressive fusion of art, drama, and cultural pride. Through the 1990s, as Rohit Bal made a mark with his native Kashmir- and India-inspired creations, he embodied a philosophy of style that he shared openly, always championing beauty, elegance, and individuality. A guardian of taste, he inspired those around him with his unwavering commitment to aesthetics. Sabyasachi Mukherjee, one of the reigning stars of Indian fashion today, once said reverently, “I knew I had arrived when they placed my show on the same day as Rohit Bal.”
Whether mentoring young designers or inspiring fashion lovers, Bal encouraged people to value personal style, saying in an interview, “If you want to remain relevant, it is very important to stay true to who you are. Just be you. Don’t try to be somebody else-they already exist.”
He stood for couture that commanded attention without relying on trends or gimmicks. Unlike many designers who sought Bollywood endorsements, Bal selectively collaborated with celebrities, careful to protect his brand’s artistic integrity. This choice set him apart, emphasizing that his designs were crafted for those who valued style over celebrity association. His uncompromising vision became his style legacy to India, shaping our ideas about style and elegance, just as his electric shows mesmerized audiences.Bal was known to carry these convictions off the runway and into the real world he inhabited, living them fully. When displeased with my writing, he sometimes wielded fashion itself as his critique. At a party, he once criticised my choice of hair clip, calling it “tacky.” He was, of course, right-I could have chosen something more refined amid an impeccably dressed crowd.Rohit Bal’s life and career are a testament to his dedication to beauty, his deep love for India’s cultural richness, and his commitment to sharing it with the world. For Indian fashion, he was far more than a designer; he was an artist and a visionary. As he departed on the night of Diwali, it’s easy to imagine that the universe marked the moment with a celestial fashion show in his honour, fireworks illuminating his journey onward. I’d like to believe Rohit Bal has the audacity and conviction to take the magic with him wherever he goes.
