AS I gaze into the deep, dark waters of Loch Ness and the mountains tower skywards, it’s easy to believe the unbelievable.
This loch contains more water than the lakes of England and Wales combined – it’s 23 miles long and 230 metres at its deepest point.
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And as my Loch Ness cruise cuts through the silent water, it doesn’t seem quite so silly to think that a giant monster could be hiding in the murky depths.
The loch offers multiple cruises, but I’ve booked one that includes a tour of the atmospheric Urquhart Castle, £47.70 per person (Getyourguide.co.uk).
This eerie ruin on the banks of Loch Ness has been attacked, ransacked and even blown up over the centuries.
As I ascend the viewpoint of the castle’s Grant Tower overlooking the loch, again I can’t help but keep an eye out for Nessie.
Wild at heart
The Scottish Highlands are wild territory, a windswept landscape in an ever-changing kaleidoscope of weather.
I’ve set up base in the Highlands’ capital city of Inverness, where stunning sights like Loch Ness are just 30 minutes’ drive away and many core attractions are just a few minutes from the city centre.
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As an Outlander fan, I’m keen to take in the Clava Cairns ancient cemetery and the stone circle, rumoured to have been the inspiration for Craigh na Dun in the TV series, and a peaceful destination that dates back 4,000 years. Better still, it’s free to visit (Historicenvironment.scot).
My next stop is Culloden Battlefield, where the story of the last major battle fought on British soil, in 1746, is sensitively told.
I learn that around 1,300 men were killed in less than an hour, before the 360-degree noisy battle theatre puts me right at the heart of the bloodthirsty action.
Entry costs £16 for adults, £11.50 for children (Nts.org.uk/visit/places/culloden).
Of course, there’s another TV show that’s thrown a spotlight on the incredible Scottish scenery, so I venture north to get close to The Traitors territory.
The BBC show, hosted by Claudia Winkleman, is filmed in Ardross Castle and its surrounding 100 acres, but sadly, it’s not open to visitors
Instead, I head to the town of Dornoch, an hour’s drive away, to see the cathedral where Madonna had her son Rocco christened, before travelling 20 minutes further into the Highlands to Brora, the spot Brora cashmere is named after.
Today, this scenic coastal town boasts a beautifully unspoilt sandy beach for invigorating hikes.
Afterwards, I warm up in The Curing Yard Restaurant at Brora’s Royal Marine Hotel, which has a Sunday lunch menu worth stopping for – succulent roast Highland sirloin of beef, followed by rich sticky toffee pudding and local ice cream from Capaldi’s.
Two courses cost £19.75 (Royalmarinebrora.com).
Scot and the City
Back in Inverness, I book dinner at one of the newest restaurant openings, Beira, named after Scottish folklore’s Queen of Winter.
Cocktails like Cailleach Curse, £11 – a blend of Isle of Bute Heather Gin with Martell VSOP and sherry – and Dark Beira, with Tomatin Legacy whisky and Kraken Rum, £12, are standouts.
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Hearty cullen skink (smoked haddock chowder), £8, and a main of tender local venison, £28, also go down a treat, before I finish with a traditional cranachan dessert of raspberry, cream and whisky, £8 (Beirainverness.com).
My night ends with live Scottish music and a half pint of Black Isle blonde lager, £3, in the legendary Hootananny pub (Hootanannyinverness.co.uk).
The next day, I hit the shops.
At Isle of Skye Candle Company, I fall for scents like fresh Scottish Bluebell, Machair Flowers and Highland Gorse (Skyecandles.co.uk), and find quirky souvenirs, including humorous Highland Cow place mats, £6, at Thistle Do Nicely on Bridge Street.
At Inverness’ Victorian Market with its iconic white ceiling and red steel beams, I’m greeted by 30 independent sellers and food stalls, such as the retro Sweets For My Sweet vintage candy store (Thevictorianmarket.co.uk).
But my sweet tooth is better satisfied with sushi afternoon tea in the chic Glenmoriston Townhouse.
Colourful prawn and radish dragon rolls and strawberry crumble cake are washed down with sencha goji berry tea, from £22.95 per person (Glenmoristontownhouse.com).
River Islands
Confident the Traitors can’t murder me during the night (FYI: the contestants actually kip in an airport hotel each evening), I’m cosying down at the four-star Best Western Inverness Palace Hotel & Spa, a stylish bolt-hole overlooking the River Ness.
The Eight On The River restaurant and terrace makes the most of the riverside vistas, where I tuck into fresh pastries and fruit to start the day.
There’s also a swimming pool, whirlpool, sauna and steam room, which I enjoy before indulging in a 30-minute aromatherapy massage, £46, at the Sleeping Beauty Spa.
Double rooms cost from £87.90 (Invernesspalacehotel.co.uk).
On my final day in the Highlands, I explore the Ness Islands dotted along the river, and stumble upon sculptures and a small amphitheatre, but sadly don’t spot any seals.
Despite that, when it comes to Inverness, it’s safe to say that I’m now 100% a Faithful…
FYI
Plan your trip at Visitinverness lochness.com.
Fly to Inverness from London, Manchester and Belfast, from £48 return.
